Set-up of a gas refrigerator

All gas connections and installations should be done by a licensed technician. For your safety, If you smell gas, open windows and doors immediately, don’t operate electrical switches, extinguish all open flames, and promptly call your gas supplier.

Gas Connection

All EZ Freeze Propane Gas Refrigerators are equipped with a Male 3/8″ Flare Fitting located (if standing at front and facing the unit) at the rear right lower corner area. This type of fitting does not require tape, liquid, or paste sealers. Use a flex line to connect the unit to the gas supply. We recommend to connect to an On/Off valve. Use a flex line that is long enough to move the unit away from the wall to allow access to the rear for service.

Leak Testing

Be sure to leak test all connections prior to ignition and again immediately following ignition. Use a soapy water solution or a purpose “Gas Leak Detector” liquid and apply with a soft bristle brush. Inspect all connections for bubbles.

Gas Pressure

All EZ Freeze Propane Refrigerators are designed to operate from an LP Gas supply with 11″ W.C. (Water Column) gas pressure. Your gas supplier will be able to check the pressure at the time of installation or you can check it yourself with a Manometer. Click here to see how.


All absorption type propane gas refrigerators operate with the use of gravity. The flow rate of the liquids is determined by the angle of the tubing on the cooling unit. It is vital that the unit be level as to get the correct flow rate for the best efficiency. Use a level on the inside of the freezer box and level the unit left to right as well as front to back. If the floor is not stable or too out of level, using shims under the legs/rollers is an option.


Air ventilation (circulation) is very important. Note that a larger refrigerator produces more heat than a smaller size refrigerator therefore requiring more ventilation. Always provide plenty of air circulation behind and above the refrigerator. The purpose for proper air circulation is 1.) to prevent any heat “buildup” resulting from lack of ventilation. 2.) To provide ample airflow for proper refrigerator performance. 3.) To prevent any direct draft to the burner area which may result in the burner blowing out. When venting directly outside or into the attic, use a shield or baffle to prevent a direct draft from occurring. Allow at least 6″ from the top of the refrigerator to ceiling or other obstructions. To create air circulation for better flow, see the following tips.

  • A 2 1/2″ X 12″ hole cut in the floor at the rear of the refrigerator space with a register installed allowing intake air from the basement or crawl space will allow air to circulate up the back of the cooling unit. Use a register that can be opened and closed.
  • Allow 1″ on either side and 2″ from the back for additional air circulation
  • Venting the Flue Pipe (exhaust) directly outside or into the attic with similar plumbing as a water heater requires will rid the area of most of the heat the refrigerator produces. Do not make a sealed connection between the Flue Pipe and Vent Pipe connection. Simply hover the Vent Pipe over the Flue Pipe thus allowing for some air to draft in at this point to create a good flow.
  • If the air circulation is suspect, roll refrigerator away from walls and/or surrounds and let run in this position for a period of time in order to compare performance to the intended location. If the refrigerator compartment lowers drastically during this period while under similar circumstances of use, then the air circulation in the intended location is inadequate.